Dave Howell heading along the iconic Striding Edge
The Helvellyn range dominates the Eastern Lake District, forming a huge barrier between the Central Fells and the Ullswater region, cleaving the national park in two. Its famous summit is the highest in England aside from a clutch of peaks in the Scafells. However, it is the nation’s favourite, with around 250,000 people ascending to its top every year. This popularity is due to its wonderful accessibility, stonking views and the drama found on its subsidiary peaks, exciting ridges and in its spectacular combs. There’s something here for everyone, from scenic hiking trails, nerve-shredding scrambles and glorious wild swim spots. A plane even once landed on the summit, but that’s another story. Here, we detail some of the finest routes to the top, when to go and where to stay. Undoubtedly Helvellyn’s finest feature is the huge comb found to the east of its summit. It’s a majestic natural amphitheater sculpted during the last Ice Age, 11,000 to 12,000 years ago. Nestled at its centre is beautiful Red Tarn, which is guarded by two glacier carved ridges that tower threateningly above the dark waters. These sharp, rocky arêtes are Striding Edge and Swirral Edge, both thrilling ways to the summit. Striding Edge is particularly notorious and its traverse is probably the most famous mountain route in the UK. The whole range is a natural masterpiece. Running from Clough Head in the north to Dollywaggon Pike in the south, its main spine is the highest continuous ground in the country. Nowhere else in England can you stride out for so long above the 800m contour line and enjoy such a phenomenal panorama.
The Edges
For many, the quintessential Helvellyn experience is an ascent of Striding Edge, a visit to the summit and a descent of Swirral Edge – or vice versa. Both Edges are grade 1 scrambles, pitched perfectly as introductions to exciting and technical mountain terrain. The villages of Glenridding and Patterdale are the usual start points.
In good conditions, there’s nothing overly difficult about the Edges but it’s the feeling of exposure and the drops on either side that can catch some people out. In windy or icy conditions, the Edges are potentially dangerous and have sadly seen several fatalities down the years.
Challenge levels on Striding Edge increase dramatically in windy or icy conditions
Striding Edge is the lengthier of the two and makes for a spectacular journey across an undulating rocky arête. In reality, it’s more of a walk than a scramble, with just one unavoidable downclimb through a rocky chimney and a steep final pull up to the summit. There are bypass paths that skirt the crest of the ridge but my advice is ‘crest is best’ for both safety and enjoyment. This is particularly true when late-season snow blankets its flanks, covering the paths. If it’s too windy to comfortably walk along the crest, it’s too windy to be attempting Striding Edge in the first place.
Swirral Edge forms the northern end of the great cove above Red Tarn and links Helvellyn to the striking pyramidal peak of Catstycam, which is a superb peak in its own right and should not be missed. The Edge itself is more of an airy walk than a scramble but becomes steep and exposed in its upper section before the safer ground of the main plateau is reached.
In full winter conditions, cornices can form, both on the edges and on the edge of the main plateau, representing the main hazard for mountaineers. A good level of experience and caution are required in such circumstances.
Other approaches from the east
As well as the Edges, there are numerous other ways to access the summit from the east. If you’ve already done Striding Edge and are looking for other adventurous ways up, Nethermost Pike’s east ridge and Dollywaggon Pike via the Tongue are two wonderfully atmospheric ascents from upper Grisedale. These have a much wilder flavour, containing much of the excitement found on the Edges but without the masses.
More straightforward approaches from Glenridding and Patterdale take you past Greenside Mine, the former lead mine that was responsible for both villages’ growth. From here, you can continue up and ascend via Keppel Cove or make for the crossroads at Sticks Pass. Although longer than options starting in the west, these are the gentlest ways to Helvellyn’s summit, gaining height gradually and allowing you to take in the scenery at your leisure.
Red Tarn beneath Helvellyn's east face is a familiar sight on approaches from the east
Approaches from the west
Whereas to the east Helvellyn throws out a complex system of ridges, deep coves and long valleys, to the west the range’s green flanks drop steeply to the rift that separates it from the lower Central Fells. The A591 runs along the length of this rift, giving motorists easy access to the number of starting points.
A direct ascent can be made from Wythburn, at the southern end of Thirlmere’s serene shores. It's relentlessly steep for the first mile, before becoming easier and enjoying superb views in its latter stages. The White Stones and popular Helvellyn Gill routes from Thirlspot ascend above the rugged Browncove Crags on their way to the summit. Descent via the Helvellyn Gill route has the advantage of finishing at the King’s Head pub. To the south, Grisedale Tarn can be reached relatively quickly from the top of Dunmail Raise, providing access to routes across Dollywaggon Pike and Nethermost Pike.
Morning light on Grisedale Tarn to the south of the Helvellyn range
The Traverse
As far as an epic hike goes, the Traverse of Helvellyn’s spine is one of the finest in the national park. It is also one of the most iconic sections of the Bob Graham Round, the Lake District’s classic fellrunning challenge. From Threlkeld in the north to Dunmail Raise or even Grasmere in the south, it is an epic undertaking across the highest continuous ground in the country and at least nine Wainwright summits. Of course, figuring out how to get back to your car afterwards is all part of the challenge.
Clough Head at the northern end of the Traverse
PRODUCTS
OUR
HELVELLYN ROUTE MUGS
When to go
The main hiking season on Helvellyn is generally between April and October, when there are longer daylight hours and favourable conditions. August is the busiest month, when the mountain becomes the objective of families on their summer break, and you can expect the trails to be busy at weekends throughout the warmer months. Rise early or set out late in the day to avoid the masses.
Helvellyn can hoard snow greedily during the winter months, showing off its white coat when even the likes of the Scafells can only manage a dusting. This means that for those without mountaineering skills and equipment, the mountain can be out of bounds during colder spells. Even when not covered in the white stuff, winter can turn Helvellyn into a a bit of a beast when it comes to challenging conditions.
For mountaineers, there’s no guarantee of snow at any given point during the year, so it is advisable to keep an eye on designated forecasts and social media to see when the mountain is ‘in’. A fantastic source is the Lake District Weatherline, as the national park’s fell top assessors usually send their daily reports from Helvellyn during the winter. There are even snow sports facilities on the massif: the Lake District Ski Club operate a tow on the slopes of Raise, a subsidiary top to the north. Sixty days of decent snow is par for a decent winter season, they say.
Even when not under full winter conditions, Helvellyn demands respect during the colder months
How to prepare
Most routes to the summit of Helvellyn contain few technical difficulties and are achievable by any reasonably fit individual. Both Striding Edge and Swirral Edge are good introductions to low grade scrambling, themselves ideal preparation for slightly more serious ridge traverses like Sharp Edge on Blencathra or Snowdon’s Crib Goch. If you are unsure how you will cope with the exposure of a sinuous ridge, try the easier traverses of airy ridges like Longside Edge on Skiddaw or Scar Crags on the Causey Pike to Sail ridge first.
Striding Edge is good preparation for more serious grade one ridges like Crib Goch
How to get there and where to stay
Helvellyn is not as remote as Scafell Pike and starting points are easier to access. The range is flanked on either side by two of the Lake District’s major roads and there are a number of excellent basecamps.
For adventures from the east, including those that take in Striding and Swirral Edges, the villages of Glenridding and Patterdale are ideal. Occupying enviable positions on the southern tip of beautiful Ullswater, both have plenty of amenities and accommodation options, from basic bunkhouses to lakeside hotels. Patterdale’s post office has a special place in hillwalking history; it was here that Alfred Wainwright sold his first Pictorial Guides in 1955. For those travelling by public transport, the best option is to take a train to Penrith and hop on the 508 bus. Those staying in the Keswick region can use the 208 bus service to access the villages.
Dollywaggon Pike and Nethermost Pike from near Patterdale
Ascents from the west usually begin just off the A591, from the eastern shores of Thirlmere, where there are inns, hotels and camping options. More accommodation and amenities can be found to the north in Keswick and Threlkeld and to the south in Grasmere, Rydal and Ambleside. The 555 bus service from Kendal to Keswick runs along the A591, stopping at Windermere, Ambleside, Grasmere and Thirlmere en route. Those travelling by public transport can use the West Coast Mainline, alight at Oxenholme and change onto a local train service to Windermere to access the region.
Although technically illegal, wild camping is generally tolerated in the Lakeland Fells if done responsibly. Sheltered from westerlies, Red Tarn makes for an atmospheric place to pitch up, with the added bonus of quick access to Striding Edge and Helvellyn’s summit for sunrise. Grisedale Tarn, at the southern end of the range is another beaut of a wild camping spot.
What to pack
Helvellyn is a serious mountain and should not be taken lightly. The weather can become extremely challenging up high, even in summer. You should always be prepared for the possibility of cold, wet and windy conditions. Always take waterproofs, even if it’s sunny in the valley. The summit will usually be several degrees colder than sea level, so make sure you’ve got plenty of layers, including a moisture wicking base layer and an insulating mid layer. However, sunny days in the Lakes are more frequent than some would have you believe: sun cream is essential for the warmer months.
Fit hikers can squeeze a trek to Helvellyn’s summit and back between mealtimes, however it’s always worth taking plenty of high energy snacks to keep you going, such as trail mix, chocolate bars, sweets or energy gels. The amount of water you take will depend on the length of your planned adventure. For an out and back summit raid, 500ml should suffice, whereas you will need at least 750ml for a longer day hike.
The Helvellyn range is huge and it's easy to become disorientated when the clag is in
When the clag closes in and visibility is compromised, it’s quite easy to get lost on the Helvellyn massif. The sheer size of the range and the number of paths that explore its many nooks and crannies mean that becoming disorientated is a real possibility without proper navigational aids. GPS units and hiking apps are ideal for pinpointing your exact location. However, such technology is fallible and should not be used in isolation. A topographical map and compass should always accompany you in the mountains. Other essential items include head torches, a spare power bank to keep your devices juiced up and at least one first aid kit in your group.